CAUTION – Never get under any vehicle that is only supported by a jack.

4×4 Hi-lift Jack

By far, the best jack for 4X4’s is the Hi-lift type. It can lift virtually any vehicle and, with the aid of chains, it can be used as a winch.

The standard jack supplied with most 4X4’s can only raise the vehicle sufficiently to change a tire on paved roads or hard packed surfaces when the vehicle is not bogged. They usually rely on placing the jack under the vehicle in special spot on the frame or monocoque. If you try using this type when you are bogged to the chassis in sand or mud you’ll understand why it’s quite inadequate. The Hi-lift type jack can be used on any suitable part of the vehicle and can lift a larger amount of weight much higher than the standard jacks.

Some vehicles do not have suitable points to use a high lift jack due to the curved nature of their bodies and their bumpers. There are several types of jack adapters available to overcome this limitation. Hi-Lift makes an adapter that attaches to the lip of the underside if the curved bumpers. An adapter is also made that works well with the ARB Bull Bars.

It is best to have a jack plate around 300mm x 300mm when jacking on sand or mud to stop the jack burying itself. 7 ply plywood or 3.5mm steel is ideal, or if you carry a braai plate, this may be suitable. To test your jack plate, place 2 bricks 200mm apart with the jack plate on top; Slowly jack the vehicle while observing the plate. If it survives this without distortion it should be suitable.

A Hi-lift can be used as a jack with the aid of suitable chains. The top of the jack is attached with a chain to a suitable anchor point while another length of chain is attached to the bogged vehicle. On the bottom end of the jack is attached a length of chain with a clevis hook, while on the moving leg of the jack is attached a chain with a clevis claw.

This allows the jack to pull the vehicle approximately one metre and then attach the clevis hook while lowering the jack. The clevis hook stops the vehicle from moving back as the jack leg is lowered, ready to move the vehicle one metre again. This process is repeated until the vehicle is free.

4×4 Exhaust Bag Jack

The exhaust powered bag type of jack is very simple and easy to use, provided it can be placed under part of the vehicle. It is quite effective, especially in sand where, if necessary, a small area can be dug away to accommodate it. It requires the vehicles exhaust system to be in good condition as even a small hole will prevent the bag from inflating. It can also cause rusted or weak areas in exhaust systems to blow out.

Be sure when placing the bag under the vehicle that sharp objects are clear from the bag to avoid puncture. Once in position, connect the pipe to the vehicle exhaust and start the engine (in neutral). When the wheel is clear stop the engine and simply fill in the hole or rut with whatever is available or dig away any sand that has built up.

In today’s article we will cover the topic of conservation and 4wd off-road driving.

Off-road drivers have quite rightly been maligned and badmouthed in many parts of Africa because of cowboy driving which is environmentally destructive to highly sensitive ecosystems. It is the responsibility of all off roaders to behave in an environmentally sensitive way, or we could see former recreation areas being declared off-limits to us.

Deserts

Driving off established tracks destroys ancient life-forms every metre of the way. Always stick to existing tracks. Every time you leave an established track, a new scar is created on the landscape, and the chances are good that someone travelling after you will follow your tracks thinking it is an established route. When forced to traverse a section of desert where there are no tracks, try to drive in dry river beds. Here, vehicle tracks will be washed away in the next flash flood.

Beach Driving

Banned in South Africa and should be avoided in surrounding countries. Beach driving should be avoided unless you have no other option. Lower your tyre pressures to avoid compacting sensitive areas (and to give better flotation) Try to stick as closely as possible to the wet sand area below the high tide mark where, because of wave action, the sand is tough and resilient. If this is not possible, drive as close to the high tide marks as possible.

Never ever drive on beach dunes. They are perhaps the most dynamic and vulnerable part of beach ecology; constantly changing building blocks which hold the beach together. The backshore section, mud flats and salt marshes are all environmentally fragile and must be avoided.

Track Damage

One vehicle bogged on a bush track can destroy a road in just a few days as heavy rains gouge the initial hole into an erosion donga. When you bog down – in dry or wet weather – repair the hole afterwards. Divert any streams running through the danger area and mark the hole to warn other drivers. If you use firewood or branches to improve traction, remove them afterwards. They can cause terrible damage to the brake and fuel lines and electrical wiring of other vehicles.

Bull Bars and Winching

Bull bars are there to protect your vehicle, not to bash your way through the bush for the fun of it. Doing so destroys vegetation. When winching off a tree, use a commercially available tree saver, a collar of thick rubber or a wadded up sack to protect the bark. Winch cables cut into the bark of a tree, ring barking it, and virtually guaranteeing it will die.

In this article we will cover some basic tips on how to prepare for your 4×4 driving with the proper tools and spare parts.

Deciding what tools and spares to take depends on where you are going and for how long. The quantity of tools and spares required for a day trip is vastly different to that required for an extended expedition into the remote areas of the Kalahari or the Mopani woods of Savuti. A common problem with a long distance 4×4 trip is overloading of vehicles.

4×4 Overloading

Some 4×4’s are so overloaded that when the suspension breaks, the driver congratulates himself for having a spare spring, along with a spare axle, shock absorber, clutch plate etc. The overloading of the vehicle is in many cases the reason why various components break. By the same token, venturing into the Kalahari with just the vehicle’s original toolkit is inviting disaster.

What is needed is a common sense approach. If your vehicle is getting on in years, then chances are more components are near the end of their working life. This will necessitate carrying more spares; however it is not a license to overload the vehicle.

Carrying spares for your 4wd trip

For example, all vehicles should always carry some method of repairing a blown radiator hose. It doesn’t mean you have to carry every hose the vehicle has, but perhaps a multi-fit hose and a roll of rubber-weld tape would be sufficient,

A spare fan belt is critical to keep the engine running, but a spare air-conditioner belt will not stop you. However, the amount of room a spare a/c belt takes up is minimal and some may say an air conditioner can be considered vital on a hot African 4X4 Safari.

Another common sense area is the amount of spare oil you carry. A TD5 Land Rover Defender needs nearly 10 litres of engine oil, along with diff, gearbox and transfer case oils. Each of these oils is a different grade. To carry enough oil would mean around 20 litres in five different containers. In a break down situation engine oil can be used in all of these areas to allow you to get to civilization. It doesn’t mean you can continue your trip indefinitely without obtaining the right oil as soon as practical. An exception to this is an automatic transmission. It needs the correct grade of oil to function.

In this article we will discover what general guidelines to follow when driving off-road.

As 4X4 ownership has increased, so has the amount of off-tar recreation. There is now a special license issued by TETA that certifies the holder to drive off-road. This license is issued once the driver has completed and passed a course on Basic Off-Road Driving Techniques. The drivers competency is assessed against a set of unit standards agreed with SAQA in-line with the National Qualifications Framework.

Responsible 4-wheeling is about finesse. Other features and driving techniques assist in the overall safety of your off-road outing, but finesse and a committed understanding of the environment is the first and most important portion of your driving repertoire to acquire.

Here are some hints to help you out in this area.

• It’s important always to drive within your ability. There are times when in soft sand, like beaches and washes, speed needs to be moderate and flotation through mud and snow needs to be kept up, hence “within your ability.” Usually taking your time on the trail will allow you to pick a smooth path and allow you time to react to the varieties of terrain you can encounter like moving rocks and logs under the tyres. If you have a ground clearance deficiency, going slow helps here, in that, if you do hit a rock with the differential or other rock grabber, it will usually stop the vehicle on impact or you will lightly scrape over it. If you were going too fast and hit a rock or other obstacle, it could knock a hole in the oil pan, differential, or even knock off the oil filter.
• Avoid surprises by surveying the road ahead before you encounter it. Make sure the trail goes beyond the obstacle, doesn’t become a bottomless quagmire, and has no back side to the hill (cliff?) or just plain ends. You can get a good idea where to place your tyres and the differentials to have a plan of approach. Follow through to beyond the obstacle.
• Driving diagonally = Rollover. Always drive straight down hills or steep terrain. Know your approach and departure angles, the bumper to tyre distance. Some trails will require off-camber driving. In situations like this it’s best to go slow, keeping the tyres in the tracks. Make every attempt to avoid losing attention and ascending up a rock or stump on the up side of the hill. Trucks will tend to slide sideways before rolling over – the tyres will slip sideways a little. Stop if the slide puts you off the edge of the track. If it is clear downhill and a rollover is imminent, immediately turn the vehicle into the slide and drive it down. If that is not an option, and you are going over, turn the vehicle off and hold on to your seat-bottom while hoping that the seat belt works properly.
• Reducing tyre pressure will increase traction on gravel and sand. For most 4-wheeling purposes, a tyre pressure of 18 to 20psi will be adequate. Highway pressure is another consideration altogether. The tyre is marked on the side, i.e., 50psi at 3300 pounds. In essence, that one tyre could hold my Defender up. Depending on the weight of the loaded vehicle and the size of tyre, a tyre pressure of between 28 and 35psi works in most on-highway applications. Never overlook the importance of reading the manufacturer’s label. The air pressure difference between the front and rear is due to the tyre and auto manufacturers’ experimentation for over/under steer and load variances.
• Cross ditches or logs at an angle so that one wheel at a time goes over the obstacle; the other three help the one wheel to climb over. Dropping the tyre into a ditch or crack in a rock can put you and your truck in a vulnerable position. Sometimes the vehicle pitches and one or more tyres will catch air. Be very deliberate and careful when approaching this challenging section of any trail. Logs can bounce up and catch the undercarriage, so come off these obstacles slowly and carefully. Turn the vehicle at an angle to facilitate the one tyre at a time approach. Be careful not to allow one of the front tyres and one of the rear tyres to get in the ditch at the same time.

One of the most crucial aspects to off-roading is understanding the absolute importance of tyre pressure. Among the most pertinent tyre pressure considerations in regards to summer off-roading is utilizing optimum sand tyre pressure. Optimum sand tyre pressure is a combination of many things, of which truck-owner’s myths are least productive. However, your tyres, their construction methods and materials, what your car weighs, how it is loaded, and wheel width, all play into the sand-pressure tyre formula with predictable results. Why low pressure works, and how to determine your best sand pressure, follows:

The choice of tread pattern, otherwise known as your tyre’s footprint, is extremely important to consider during your new tyre decision making process, and especially so if you’re fitting your truck for an off-road adventure. Tread pattern should be chosen based on the intended use of your truck. The most popular tread pattern for all around off-road use is a mud terrain pattern.

The mud terrain or mud tyre pattern is characterized by large lugs on the tyre with big voids between these lugs. The large lugs provide plenty of bite in low traction conditions while the big voids allow the tyre to clean itself by throwing off mud or other material when spinning, thus providing a good bite on every rotation of the tyre. These tyres are also very popular for rock crawling as the large lugs can provide a way of gripping and pulling the tyres up and over irregular rocky edges where a smoother pattern would just spin. The biggest disadvantage of these patterns is that they run rough and loud on the highway. To reduce this problem; choose a tyre with irregular or asymmetric spacing of the lugs and voids to reduce harmonic vibration at highway speeds. There are also situations such as light powdery snow or sand where an all-terrain pattern would be better.

The general purpose all terrain tyre generally has an interlocked tread pattern with small cuts on the tread blocks. The voids in these tyres are usually much smaller than those on tyres designed for use in the mud. The denser pattern of blocks and smaller voids make these tyres quieter on the street. It also increases the surface area of the tread which gives the tyre improved flotation on surfaces such as light powdery snow or sand. The increased “cuts” can be important in snow were it is the number of edges, even quite small edges, biting into the snow that provides the traction. The downside is that the smaller voids cannot clean themselves as easily of packed mud or slush. If these voids fill up with mud the tyre loses much of its bite and traction is lost.

A variety of manufacturers also offer a family of tyres sometimes called trail tyres or some similar name. These are most often tyres designed for use on light trucks or sport utility vehicles which see most of their use on the street. They will generally be quieter, get better gas mileage and last longer than either of the other off-road patterns. The tread patterns are designed to provide significantly improved comfort or performance on the street which can sometimes compromise off-road capability. Fortunately this is the limit to which most of their intended market is likely to take them.

In this articles we are covering the best methods of surviving a trek across a hill and rocky surfaces.

Hill Ascent

It is usually best to tackle a hill climb that’s any sort of challenge in low range. Although you may be able to just reach the top of a hill climb in 1st high, it doesn’t leave you with any lower gears if the need arises. By using say 2nd or 3rd low range instead of 1st high, you have lower gears available if needed. If you run out of gears on a hill climb, you may have to back down to the bottom of the hill and start again. Most 5-speed gearboxes allow vehicles to travel up to 6Okm/h in low range, so you don’t have to be continually swapping between low and high range as you travel between hills.

Diesel vehicles are generally better for hill ascents and descents as they usually have better low rpm torque for climbing the hill and higher engine compression for descending. However, in long sandy hill ascents, where traction is low and a run-up is required, the greater power of petrol engines can be an advantage.

Hill Descent

When descending hills, you should always be in low range and have selected the gear required before descending. You should always avoid braking on downhill sections as you run the risk of locking up your wheels, causing a slide. Engine braking slows the vehicle without causing wheel lockup. However it is better to use the brakes than allow the vehicle to ‘run away’ and pick up speed. Always apply the brakes gently, rather than applying them abruptly and risking a wheel lockup.

Hill Stall Recovery

A very common occurrence on hill climbs is the stalling of the vehicle when the hill becomes too steep. When this occurs, you will be left in gear with the engine switched on but stalled. To recover from this situation you should perform a Hill Stall Recovery, rather than just fire up the engine. This is accomplished by:

• Switch the (stalled) engine off and place your foot firmly on the brake.
• Depress the clutch and select reverse gear in low range.
• Take your foot off the clutch then slowly take your foot off the brake. The vehicle is now in reverse gear with the stalled engine stopping it from rolling down the hill.
• After checking the track behind is clear, start the engine and keep your feet off all pedals.
• The starter motor will start to drive the vehicle backwards as the engine begins to fire.

This will result in a smooth downhill progression while starting the engine and ensuring you have been in gear at all times. If you simply start the engine and then select reverse gear, it will result in a fast jerky takeoff and being out of gear during some stage of the takeoff.

The Hill Stall Recovery does not apply to automatic vehicles as they should never stall; just lose forward drive when the hill becomes too steep for the gear it’s in. When this occurs, simply place your foot on the brake while restarting the engine, select the appropriate gear and gently take your foot off the brake.

A lesser used method after an uphill stall can be done in situations where the terrain is not extremely steep and you wish to continue forward up the hill but you do not wish to attempt to let the clutch out while trying due to tyre spin. This method only applies to manual transmissions and drive trains that have very low forward gears. By leaving the vehicle in gear and starting the engine without pressing the clutch in the vehicle will begin to move forward while the engine fires. Once the engine fires you can begin forward movement. This method is hard on the starter and electrical system and should not be attempted on very steep terrain due to the possible overload on the electrical system and starter. Some vehicles will not allow the starter to be engaged if the vehicle’s clutch is not depressed. In some cases this feature can be overridden by use of a clutch safety cancel switch.

Vehicle Rollover

Hills should always be tackled straight up or down and sideway slopes avoided. A vehicle has to be at an extreme angle for it to roll head to tail, whereas a sideways roll can occur at much more modest angles. The way your luggage is packed has a pronounced affect on the angle a vehicle will roll sideways. You should avoid placing containers of extra fuel and water on the roof of your vehicle, as this will significantly decrease the angle at which a rollover is possible. This occurs because the extra weight on the top of a vehicle increases the ‘center of gravity’. Heavy gear should always be packed low inside the vehicle and as centered as possible while only lightweight gear should be placed on roof racks.

The type of terrain will also affect the sideways rollover angle. In sand, mud or other soft terrain the weight transfer to the downhill wheels will cause them to sink, increasing the actual slope angle. So what may appear an acceptable angle on firm terrain may result in a rollover on soft terrain.

Water crossings can provide some of the most exhilarating and challenging 4X4 Driving around. They can also prove to be the most expensive!

A 4×4 is not an amphibious vehicle; in fact they are not even waterproof. The actual depth that you can cross depends on your vehicle. For example, a stock Toyota Land Cruiser may be submerged at the depth a raised Land Rover doesn’t even wet the doorsills.

As a general rule, if it’s above the top of your wheels it’s probably too deep. A water crossing should not be attempted by inexperienced or ill-prepared 4×4 drivers.

Prior to a water crossing, it is a good idea to place your recovery gear on top of other luggage. The last thing you want to do is be searching under your cooler, tents and baggage for your recovery gear when you are stuck in the middle of a croc infested water crossing.

Vehicle Preparation

The first thing to do before any unfamiliar water crossing is to walk it. If you cannot walk it you cannot cross it. If the water is flowing too quickly to safely walk the crossing, then it cannot be driven across. Remember, vehicles actually float until water seeps into them. When you walk the crossing you are actually starting your vehicle preparation. You are giving the axles, diff’s and gearbox time to cool down while you find out exactly how deep the water is.

Diff Breathers

When a hot axle hits cold water it cools rapidly. This has the effect of lowering the air pressure inside the axle and the diff housing, causing air to be drawn in via the diff breathers. Extending your diff breathers higher up the chassis (standard on most Land Rovers) with the aid of plastic tubing is a “must do” for regular water goers. However, it is no guarantee that water will not enter your diff. The sudden reduction in air pressure inside your diff can still cause water to be drawn in via your axle seals if the diff breathers do not equalize the pressure quick enough. This is why it’s still necessary to allow the vehicle time to cool down, even when extended diff breathers are fitted.

Air Intake

Water and engines do not mix very well, and when they do it almost always results in bent pistons, valves and crankshaft commonly called “hydro-locking“. If you think this sounds expensive your right. The positioning of the air intake is critical to how well a vehicle can handle a crossing. For example certain Land Rover models have their air intake directly behind the headlight, which is great to allow cold air into the engine but unfortunately is equally as great in directing water into the engine.

NEVER attempt a water crossing where the water depth is above the air intake height. If you intend doing regular water crossings, it’s a good idea to fit a snorkel as it raises the air intake to your roofline. It doesn’t mean you can use your 4WD as a submarine!

Engine Bay Protection

Placing a tarpaulin across the front of the vehicle minimizes water entering the engine bay by creating a bow wave, provided forward momentum is maintained. The result is less water for the radiator fan to spray over the ignition system, less chance of water entering the air intake and less likely for the fan to propel its way up to and through the radiator.

Diesel vehicles are usually better for water crossings as you do not have the ignition system to worry about. Water in the ignition system usually results in a stalled engine and not actual engine damage, though this is of little comfort when you find yourself stuck in the middle of a crossing. Depending on the water depth, it’s advisable to climb out of your window rather than open the door and flood your carpets. To minimize stalling from a wet ignition, it’s a good idea to spray all the ignition system with water repellent beforehand.

Radiator Fan

While under the hood spraying water repellent, check to see what type of radiator fan is fitted. Most 4WD’s these days have the viscous coupling type, which means that when the engine is cool enough the fan doesn’t spin at full speed. With the engine off, try and turn the fan. If it turns easily, you will probably get away without having to take off the fan belt. If it doesn’t turn easily or yours is the fixed type, then you should remove the fan belt, If you don’t and water enters the engine bay, the fan may act as a propeller, bend forward and cut a nice round hole through your radiator. It’s certainly one problem you don’t want to discover once you have completed the crossing. Even if it doesn’t affect your radiator, you still do not want water being sprayed around, especially in a petrol vehicle.

Walking the Crossing

When walking your water crossings its best to walk in the intended wheel tracks to find if there are any hidden rocks or potholes, as well as for checking the depth. Potholes at common crossings are often caused by previous vehicles spinning their wheels after hitting a submerged rock. So if you find a pothole, check for submerged rocks. It’s a good idea to place markers at these points so you can avoid them. It’s been known for a vehicle attempting a relatively easy crossing to suck in water when a single pothole has caused the hood to momentarily dip below the water level, causing water to enter the air intake, resulting in hydro-lock and a damaged engine.